Welcome to Japan: First Impressions

Ah Japan, the land of the rising sun. A far eastern island where all the women dress like Geishas, all the men mumble bushido in their sleep and ninjas dance across rooftops at night.

No, what? Honestly?

My pre-arrival impression of Japan was certainly significantly less mystical than those stereotypical images...images that seem to permeate every travel guides and 'culture video' about this vibrant and metropolitan country. Upon arrival in Hirakata my suspicions were confirmed: no ninjas (they must be hiding), no samurais downtown brandishing katanas and the only Geishas I've seen are the sparse few who disappear into the crowds of historical Kyoto during festivals like the setsubun. Likewise, the majority of the native urbanites I've observed are more concerned about getting to work on time or where to find the next biggest デパート (department store) sale than "getting in touch with their sacred history." Rather than mystical and focused on the past, the urban/suburban Japanese environment around the Hirakata-shi area during the day appears to be very fast-paced and modern just like urban areas in the States. 

On the other hand, the urban culture in Japan appears to be construed with paradoxes and unexpected practices. For one thing, during daytime Japanese cities appears to be unbelievably "safe.” Umbrellas and personal belongings left on bicycles at any street corner are left untouched. Elementary school kids walk to school and back alone during rush hour when the station is jam-packed with busy adults. And yet, as my Japanese friend pointed out to me, right around the corner from the main station exits is a gogo club and brothel neatly tucked into a street full of popular restaurants. As of now, I can only react by hypothesizing that this odd zoning speaks volumes on the Japanese view of sexuality and it's place in society among daily necessities. 

A busy street behind Hirakata-shi station filled with crowded restaurants.

A bouncer lurks at the entrance of this "red-light" building complex. (Across the street from previous photo).

As the store lights go off  and the metal doors are locked down the station presents a new face: quiet, deserted and, perhaps, somewhat sinister. Two policeman question a shifty bike rider by a familymart. A fortune teller huddles under the stairs, ready to dish-out some questionable late night readings. Across the street in the shadows of a subway exit an old, homeless man leans against the steps and looks on smoking casually .

The station at night.

Visiting Hirakata-shi station both during the daytime and witnessing it after nine pm gave me some conflicting impressions of the normally "safe and polite" Japanese society. 

No, Toto, we're certainly not in Kansas anymore (or Florida for the matter). But then, it's not as if I have come to Mars either. My first impressions of Japan strikes a balance between the strange and familiar. So far, I have only been here for two weeks and I'm convinced that with a little more courage (in approaching subjects for photos) and with some extra digging I'll be able to figure out exactly what to make of the urban lifestyle of the modern Japanese.